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They come in sizes 4 cm, 5 cm, and 11 cm. Therefore, you can’t use this option with an electric guitar.Ī side-mounted machine head is typically metal with plastic handles. They also only come on classical acoustic or flamenco guitars with nylon strings. The difference between the two is that side-mounted machines are attached along the side of the headstock. In fact, the two options are so similar that most people call side-mounted tuners by the wrong name. Side-mounted machine heads are similar to vintage open-backs in design and aesthetics, but they differ when it comes to functionality. The protective housing adds a bit of extra weight and with the placements of the machine heads on the headstock, the weight distribution of your instrument is affected.
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The protective housing avoids dirt and debris getting in the machinery, the machine heads, as a result, stay in better condition. They’re also fitted to the side, rather than the back. Vintage closed-back machine heads are functionally similar to vintage open-backs, but they differ in that they have casing (or housing) that surrounds the gears for protection. Vintage Closed-Back Machine Heads Image source Depending on your guitar and the frequency you play, you’ll have to pony up more money to fit a set of these.Ī popular maker of this type is Waverly, shown in the image above – here’s the link to (affiliate link) if you want a closer look. Vintage open-back machine heads and usually rather ornate, and offer a detailed design that’s not cheap. You’ll notice they start to feel and look worn after only a few years. The main issue with vintage open-backs is that they’re exposed to the elements.īecause the internal mechanisms and gears are exposed, they take on more damage from dirt and debris. The less weight directly affects balance and the overall mass of the neck and headstock of the guitar. This option also tends to weigh less than sealed machines because they don’t have the protective housing. Their charm and design fit vintage guitars well. They were standard on instruments from the 60s through the 80s, so they’re also a collector’s item today. Vintage open-back machines heads are the first choice for many people who play vintage guitars. They have press-fit brushing that fits in tiny ¼-inch holes drilled into the headstock. You can identify vintage open-back tuners from the exposed gear cogs on the back. We’ll explain the benefits and downsides of each as we go. There are six main types of machine heads.
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Things have moved on a bit, as we’ll see. While we may think its main purpose is to help change the pitch of each string, the gears’ main function is actually to impede movement (stop the strings slipping).Ī tuner that lets a string slip is no good at all!īack in the day, as documented by Alhambra Guitarras’ superb guide on the parts of the guitar, machine heads were commonly made from wood. Photos would be great of the front and back of the headstock.The machine head is a geared apparatus on the headstock of stringed instruments that tunes and adjusts string tension, and you’ll find them on most if not all stringed instruments. But there isn't a lot of play between the low E peg and nut anyway so this doesn't sound like a big issue, and you said the setup is good.īut still, the tuner peg shouldn't really be out of position like that so it makes me wonder why it's there. So this is the playability issue this would cause - as you bend the string it must move in the nut slot, and if there is too much friction there it can stick. I have a Les Paul and the 3rd and 4th string do sometimes stick in the nut slot a little if I don't lube it up. It depends how far off it is, but some guitars do have a sideways break angle. Wrapping it the other way should make it further off, I would think. In every picture of a JM I can find online, the strings appear to go straight through the nut slot, but it sounds like the tuner is a little closer to the A than it should be. It should be wrapped so the string is on the 'down' (high E) side of the tuner.